STEPS TO GARMENT MAKING
1st Step
Prepare the fabric booking : After approval of fit sample & received the final PO sheet from buyer,
pattern/cutting section will make a correct pattern set of all the sizes. In middle class factory normally
merchandiser do the consumption with the help of cutting master after placed the pattern of
on marker paper. In this regards please always remember one thing if the orders qty is with size wise
ratio then you must consider it during the making marker with pattern. I will discuss more details
regarding the marker in near future. After get the consumption & dia confirmations merchandiser will
booked the fabric and hand over the color & construction wise fabric break up sheet to fabric
department. During this merchandiser should provide them all the lab dip approval with other
instructions. Please also booked the collar & cuff.
2nd Step
Prepare the Accessories booking: In same time of booking the fabric merchandiser also should booked
the accessories. Merchandiser should ensue that, the store will receive all the sewing
accessories before in house of the the fabric. Sewing accessories means - Sewing thread, main/size label,
care label, tape etc. Merchandiser should always follow up the sewing production because when a
minimum qty will be output he should try to book the finishing accessories like as - Poly, Carton etc.
Before booked the poly & back board he must confirm the folding way with buyer. Also merchandiser
should take approval of shipping mark, sticker & carton quality from his buyer. Some others accessories
like as - hang tag, hang tag string, thinner, spot lifter, inter lining, he must booked these at the same
time of fabric booking. After received these trims he should make a trim card and distribute to all the
sections. Store department should count & check the quality of all the accessories before start sewing
production and also provide a inventory report to merchandiser.
3rd Step
Production planning: After placing all the booking he should discuss with the planning for a production
planning. Maximum middle class factory do not follow this procedure.
4th Step
Quality check of fabric: After receive the fabric from dyeing the fabric Q.C department will check the
color shade, Gsm, dia, shrinkage, twisting etc and acknowledged the merchandiser accordingly. The
fabric q.c team will also check the count the collar & check the others quality. A middle class factory
need a strong quality team for fabric because normally they do the dyeing in others factory.

we join the collar with body by use of a over lock machine.
g) Back tape joint: After collar joint we joint the back tape in the flat lock machine by used of folder.
h) Placket Top stitch: After back tap joint we put placket top stitch by use two plain machine.
i) Placket Box: After the top stitch of placket we make the placket box by use of plain machine.
j) Main/size label attachment: After the placket box making we attached the main/size label inside the
back tape by use of plain machine.
k) Sleeve rolling/ sleeve hem: In the mean time we roll the or hem the sleeve with flat lock machine.
l) Sleeve joint: Now we will joint the sleeve with body by use of over lock machine.
m) Side seam joint: After these operations we joint the both side seam of body & sleeve by use of over
lock machine. We also attached the care label in between this operations.
n) Bottom hem: After the side seam joint we hem the bottom by use of a flat lock machine.
o) Sleeve (opening)Tack: After these process we put a tack in sleeve opening.
p) Button Hole: Then we make hole on the placket by use of button hole machine. In this regards please
note that button hole will be little bit smaller then the button dia (ligne). Also be noted top button hole
will be horizontal where as the others button hole will be vertical. However, you should confirmed it
with your buyer.
q) Button Stitch: After button hole we will be attached the button with placket by use of button stitch
machine. Please note that, many time buyer asked for extra button. If needed then we will also stitched
a button with the body.
Machine Wise Sewing Operation (knit Items)
Learn Apparel Merchandising, Learn Fashion Design.
Some Common Machine wise Sewing Operations.
From my this post you will got a common list of sewing operations based on knitted items.
Plain Machine
1. Placket Rolling
2. Placket Box
3. Nose Tack
4. Neck Tack
5. Sleeve Tack
6. Neck Rib Tack

2. Zipper: From the zipper factory we can get various kind of zipper. We can categorize the zipper by
following points as mentioned below
a) Teeth: Nylon teeth, Vislone teeth, Metal teeth etc.
b) Color: Tape color, Teeth color.
c) Size: #3, #5 & #8 etc.
d) Function: Auto lock, Semi auto lock, Hidden zipper, reversible, Open end (O/E), Close End (C/E) etc.
e) Length: As per requirement 18 cm, 66 cm etc.
3. LABELS: Main, Size, Care (Polyester care label & Nylon or paper care label), Content, price, patch etc
4. BUTTON : Pearl plastic button, 02 hole button, 03 hole button, 04 hole button, custom button shape,
Horn button, Shang button, Metal button, logo button, non logo button etc.
5. ELASTIC : Cotton elastic, Polyester elastic, 400 denier, 700 denier, 1 cm width, 1.5 cm width, 3 cm
width etc.
6. EYELET : Antique, Matching color, Matt silver, Antique Silver, 22 mm dia, with logo or w/o logo,
emboss logo, engraved logo etc.
7. SNAP BUTTON: Snap button, press button, 4 part snap button, male part of snap button, female part
of snap button, antic color, Silver color, matching color.
8. VELCRO : Hook & Pile, Matching color.
9. STRING/CORD : Cotton, Polyester etc.
10. PLASTIC CLIP
11. Tag pin: Clr – White, black, transparent, 3 cm, 6 cm, 8 cm, 12 cm etc.
12. TAGS : Price tag, Hand Tag, Brand Tag etc.
13. STICKER : Hook & Pile etc.
14. HANGER: BDS hanger, t-hanger, 28 cm, 34 cm, Transparent, Semi transparent, Solid color etc.
15. Hanger size ring: Size ring of hanger, Size print etc.
16. POLYBAG (0.80 mm) : Strength : Chemical Mixture. Thickness (micron/mm: 1mm = 1000 micron)
Elasticity Transparent, LDPE (Low Density Poly Ethylene), PP (Poly Propylene), Adhesive, with hole,
warning, size, recycle logo etc.
17. BLISTER BAG (.05 mm): Loaded capacity is higher than polybag
18. SCOTCH TAPE
19. GUMTAPE: With logo print, none logo, Khaki color, transparent color.

th
May
OCS102 Blouse 300012
th
May
OCS103 Trouser 500015
th
May
GAP104 Long sleeve Tee 300017
th
May
GAP105 Skirt 300021
st
May
GAP106 Dress 150021
st
May
GAP107 Long sleeve Tee 1000010
th
May
GAP108 Skirt 120004
th
May
Total 28,000
Step 2: Suppose a factory has 5 production lines. Calculate available capacity of the line using capacity
calculation formula considering absenteeism (10%) and line efficiency %. You should have knowledge
about line wise production efficiency to calculate actual capacity of a line. Or calculate it prior to line
loading plan.
Available capacity in hours = {(No. of operators/machines x working days in a month x daily work hours
x 60) – absenteeism %} x Efficiency %

6220.8
Line
5
25 480 39% 10%
4212.0
Step 3: Next, calculate required capacity for each order (style) in minutes and in days. Assume that
above 8 styles to be run in 5 lines and styles will be loaded only in single line. Consider that all lines
blank and you have no issue with starting date. In this stage you have to also decide which line to be
chosen for the styles. Allocate order to the line according to product category and line set up (machines
laid). In Table-3 line number has been mentioned against the order number. Use the following formula
for the calculation.
Capacity required in minutes = Order Quantity X Style SMV
Capacity required in days = Capacity required in minutes / Capacity available per day.
Refer to the table-3 for calculated minutes and days required for each style.
Table-3: Required capacity calculation
Order
No.
Loaded
to Line
No.
Order
Quantity
Style
SMV
Capacity
Required
(Minutes)
Capacity
available
per day

Description
Loaded
to Line #
Production
completion
date
Capacity
Required
(Days)
Loading
date
Comments
OCS101 Dress Line-1 10
th
May
1126
th
April
OCS102 Blouse Line-2 12
th
May
1227
th
April
OCS103 Trouser Line-3 15
th
May
1328
th
April

May
528
th
April
Step 5: Once you gone through this article, practice this with some of your real styles. I wish you can
make it. If you feel you need further assistance then write us.