4th Edition
Alaska
$19.99 US / $23.99 CN / £13.99 UK
ISBN 978-0-470-38527-2
Whether your style is luxury cruise
ship, laid-back road trip, or active
wilderness hike, this guide helps
you explore Alaska the fun and easy
way. See wildlife roaming vast open
spaces. Explore Mount McKinley,
Native Alaskan culture, and old gold
rush towns. Go skiing, sea kayaking, or
fishing. Marvel at spectacular glaciers
and windswept tundras. You can do
it all on a wild and wonderful Alaskan
adventure.
Tame the wilds of
America’s Last Frontier
Travel
travel smart @ www.dummies.com
• Down-to-earth
trip-planning advice
• What you shouldn’t miss —
and what you can skip
• The best hotels and restaurants
for every budget
• Lots of detailed maps
With tips and recommendations
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Published simultaneously in Canada
No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or
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LIMIT OF LIABILITY/DISCLAIMER OF W
ARRANTY: THE PUBLISHER AND THE AUTHOR MAKE NO REP-
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from St. Martin’s Press is tentatively titled Hidden Waters: Human
Nature and the Fate of the Oceans, and explores the history, ecol-
ogy, and anthropology of Prince William Sound. Wohlforth can be
reached through his Web site, www.wohlforth.net.
Author’s Acknowledgments
This is my fourth edition of Alaska For Dummies and, more than
ever, it is the product of teamwork. From the very start, I received
enormous help from friends, colleagues, and my family — the size
and diversity of Alaska would otherwise make the project impossi-
ble. I want to acknowledge them all, but I need to give special note
to the remarkable professionals who assisted with this edition.
Karen Datko is more than my right hand; without her creative and
journalistic talents, the book would have been greatly diminished.
Researchers and writers around the state contributed as well,
bringing new life to the book and giving it the insider’s insider
information that I couldn’t have produced alone, even as a lifelong
Alaskan; they include: Eric Troyer, Charlotte Glover, Kris Capps,
Matt Hawthorne, Martha Robinson, and Charles Homans.
01_385272-ffirs.qxp 2/13/09 12:02 AM Page v
Editorial
Editors: Chris Summers, Marc Nadeau,
Erin Amick
Copy Editor: Elizabeth Kuball
Cartographer: Guy Ruggiero
Editorial Assistant:
Jessica Langan-Peck
Senior Photo Editor: Richard Fox
Front cover: © Jeff Foott /
Discovery Channel Images /
Getty Images

We’re proud of this book; please send us your comments through our Dummies
online registration form located at
www.dummies.com/register/.
Some of the people who helped bring this book to market include the following:
01_385272-ffirs.qxp 2/13/09 12:02 AM Page vi
Contents at a Glance
Introduction 1
Part I: Introducing Alaska 7
Chapter 1: Discovering the Best of Alaska 9
Chapter 2: Digging Deeper into Alaska 15
Chapter 3: Deciding Where and When to Go 25
Chapter 4: Great Alaska Itineraries 35
Part II: Planning Your Trip to Alaska 45
Chapter 5: Managing Your Money 47
Chapter 6: Getting to Alaska 58
Chapter 7: Getting Around Alaska 69
Chapter 8: Cruising Alaska’s Coast 81
Chapter 9: Planning an Outdoor Adventure 108
Chapter 10: Booking Your Accommodations 130
Chapter 11: Catering to Special Travel Needs or Interests 136
Chapter 12: Taking Care of the Remaining Details 142
Part III: Anchorage and Environs 157
Chapter 13: Settling Into Anchorage 159
Chapter 14: Exploring Anchorage 180
Chapter 15: Side Trips from Anchorage 202
Part IV: Road Trips from Anchorage 219
Chapter 16: The Kenai Peninsula: Seward, Kenai Fjords
National Park, Kenai, and Homer 221
Chapter 17: Fairbanks 260
Chapter 18: Driving Alaska’s Highways 283

Skagway 346
Sitka 354
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Table of Contents
Introduction 1
About This Book 1
Conventions Used in This Book 2
Foolish Assumptions 3
How This Book Is Organized 3
Part I: Introducing Alaska 4
Part II: Planning Your Trip to Alaska 4
Part III: Anchorage and Environs 4
Part IV: Road Trips from Anchorage 4
Part V: Southeast Alaska 4
Part VI: The End of the Road and Beyond:
Bush Alaska 5
Part VII: The Part of Tens 5
Icons Used in This Book 5
Where to Go from Here 6
Part I: Introducing Alaska 7
Chapter 1: Discovering the Best of Alaska 9
The Best Big Ice 10
The Best Bear Viewing 11
The Best Places to Encounter Indigenous Culture 12
The Best Gold-Rush Towns 12
The Best Day Hikes 13
The Best One-of-a-Kind Lodgings 14
Chapter 2: Digging Deeper into Alaska 15
Understanding Alaska’s Native Cultures 15
Being courteous among Alaska’s first people 17

Chapter 4: Great Alaska Itineraries 35
Touring Southeast Alaska in One Week
without a Cruise Ship 36
Seeing the National Parks: Denali and
Kenai Fjords in One Week 38
Covering a Lot of (Alaskan) Ground in Two Weeks 39
Planning a Kid-Friendly Week in Alaska 41
Experiencing Alaska in White: A Week of Real Winter 43
Part II: Planning Your Trip to Alaska 45
Chapter 5: Managing Your Money 47
Planning Your Budget 47
Transportation 48
Lodging 49
Dining 49
Sightseeing and outdoor activities 50
Shopping 50
Nightlife 52
Keeping an Eye on Hidden Expenses 52
Cutting Costs — But Not the Fun 53
Handling Your Money 55
Using ATMs and carrying cash 55
Charging ahead with credit cards 55
Toting traveler’s checks 56
Dealing with a Lost or Stolen Wallet 56
Alaska For Dummies, 4th Edition
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Chapter 6: Getting to Alaska 58
Flying to Alaska 58
Finding out which airlines fly there 58

Finding the best cruise-ship experience for you 88
Booking Your Cruise 90
Reserving a small-ship cruise 91
Finding an agent who specializes in
mainstream cruises 92
Keeping in mind some money-saving strategies 93
Booking air travel through the cruise line 94
Choosing your cabin 95
Speaking up about special health and
dietary concerns 96
The Small-Ship Cruise Lines 96
The Big-Ship Cruise Lines 100
Table of Contents
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Chapter 9: Planning an Outdoor Adventure 108
Nine Ways to Get Killed in Alaska’s Outdoors 108
Getting eaten by a bear (and such) 109
Drowning in freezing water 110
Succumbing to exposure 110
Getting eaten alive by bugs 111
Getting lost 111
Drowning while crossing a river 111
Keeling over from bad clams 112
Getting seasick 112
Drinking tainted water 113
Getting Active in the Alaska Summer 113
Backpacking 113
Biking off-road 114
Biking on pavement 114

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02_385272-ftoc.qxp 2/13/09 12:02 AM Page xii
Finding the Best Room at the Best Rate 133
Shop early for peak times 133
Travel off-peak 134
Ask for discounts 134
Don’t stop with the Internet 134
Book a package tour 134
Don’t worry about it 135
Booking Rooms Online 135
Chapter 11: Catering to Special Travel Needs
or Interests 136
Vacationing in Alaska with Children 136
Tackling the challenges 137
Finding a family-friendly package 138
Keeping kids happy on the road 138
Traveling as Senior Citizens 140
Accessing Alaska: Advice for Travelers
with Disabilities 140
Resources for Gays and Lesbians 141
Chapter 12: Taking Care of the Remaining Details 142
Playing It Safe with Travel and Medical Insurance 142
Trip-cancellation insurance 143
Medical insurance 143
Lost-luggage insurance 144
Staying Healthy When You Travel 144
Reserving Activities, Restaurants, and Shows 145
Booking your activities 146
Reserving a table at restaurants 147

Using shoe leather 165
Where to Stay in Anchorage 166
The top hotels and B&Bs 166
Runner-up accommodations 171
Where to Dine in Anchorage 172
The top restaurants 172
Runner-up restaurants 178
Chapter 14: Exploring Anchorage 180
Hitting the Top Sights 181
Getting Outdoors: Summer and Winter in the City 182
Summertime outdoor activities 183
Wintertime outdoor activities 189
Discovering More Cool Things to See and Do 191
Downtown 191
Beyond downtown 191
Seeing Anchorage by Guided Tour 193
Spending One, Two, or Three Days in Anchorage 193
Day 1 in Anchorage 193
Day 2 in Anchorage 194
Day 3 in Anchorage 194
Saving Time for Alaska Shopping 194
Finding the best shopping areas 194
What to look for and where to find it 196
Getting Out in the Evening 198
Attending the performing arts 198
Hitting the nightclubs and bars 198
Spending the evening at the movies 199
Fast Facts: Anchorage 200
Chapter 15: Side Trips from Anchorage 202
Driving between Mountain and Sea

Getting around 225
Where to stay 226
Runner-up accommodations 228
Where to dine 228
Seward’s top attractions 229
Getting outdoors in Seward 230
Other cool things to do in Seward 232
Fast Facts: Seward 232
Getting there 233
Getting park information 234
Enjoying the park 234
Deciding on a tour 235
Checking out Exit Glacier 237
Kenai and Soldotna 238
Getting there and getting around 239
Where to stay 239
Where to dine 240
Fishing in Kenai and Soldotna 241
Canoeing near Kenai and Soldotna 243
Other things to do in Kenai and Soldotna 244
Table of Contents
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Fast Facts: Kenai and Soldotna 246
Driving to the Sea in Homer 246
Getting there 247
Getting around Homer 247
Where to stay 247
Runner-up accommodations 251
Where to dine 251

Chapter 18: Driving Alaska’s Highways 283
Understanding Alaska’s Road Map 284
The Prince William Sound Loop: Anchorage
to Whittier to Valdez to Glennallen 286
Day 1: Anchorage to Valdez 286
Day 2: A day in Valdez 287
Day 3: Valdez to Glennallen 287
Day 4: The road back to Anchorage 288
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The Denali/Fairbanks Loop: Anchorage
to Glennallen to Fairbanks to Denali 289
Day 1: Anchorage to Glennallen 289
Day 2: Glennallen to Fairbanks 290
Day 3: A day in Fairbanks 290
Day 4: Fairbanks to Denali 290
Day 5: A day in Denali 291
Day 6: Denali back to Anchorage 291
Linking up the Loops 291
Driving to the Arctic and Other Extremes 292
Dalton Highway (Route 11) 293
Denali Highway (Route 8) 294
Edgerton Highway and McCarthy Road
(Route 10) 294
The Klondike Loop 294
Steese Highway (Route 6) 295
Chapter 19: Denali National Park 297
Planning Ahead 299
Reserving shuttle seats and campsites

Where to Stay 313
The top hotels and lodges 313
Runner-up accommodations 315
Campgrounds 316
Where to Dine 317
Part V: Southeast Alaska 321
Chapter 20: Juneau 323
Getting There 324
Arriving by air 324
Arriving by ferry 324
Getting Downtown 324
Navigating by taxi 324
Navigating by bus 325
Navigating by rental car 325
Orienting Yourself in Juneau 326
Getting around by car 326
Getting around by bicycle 326
Where to Stay in Juneau 328
The top hotels and B&Bs 328
Runner-up accommodations 331
Where to Dine in Juneau 331
Exploring Juneau 333
Exploring the top attractions 334
Other cool things to see and do 336
Shopping 336
Nightlife 337
Getting Outdoors in Juneau 337
Bear-viewing 337
Fishing and whale-watching 338
Flightseeing and dog-mushing 338

By car 355
By bike 355
Where to Stay 355
Where to Dine 356
The top restaurants 357
Runner-up restaurants 357
Exploring Sitka 357
Exploring the top attractions 358
Getting outdoors in Sitka 359
More cool things to see and do 362
Shopping 362
Fast Facts: Sitka 363
Part VI: The End of the Road and Beyond:
Bush Alaska 365
Chapter 23: The Arctic 367
Discovering the Arctic and Its Major Attractions 368
Barrow 368
Nome 368
Going to the Top of the World: Barrow 369
Getting there 369
Getting around 369
Where to stay 370
Where to dine 370
Exploring Barrow 371
Getting outdoors in Barrow 372
Fast Facts: Barrow 372
On Your Own in Nome 373
Getting there 373
Getting around 373
Where to stay 374

Glen Alps: Stepping from City to Mountain 391
Tony Knowles Coastal Trail:
Exploring Urban Wilds 392
Bird Ridge Trail: A Spectacular Cardiac Test 392
Alaska Center for Coastal Studies:
Tide-Pool Adventure 392
Granite Tors Trail: Nature-Carved Monuments 393
Denali National Park: Finding Your Measure
in the Backcountry 393
Outer Point Trail: Walking to Whale Waters 393
The Streets of Juneau: Finding the Charm
of Old Alaska 394
Sitka National Historical Park: Picturing the War 394
Barrow’s Arctic Ocean Beach: Standing
at the World’s Edge 394
Alaska For Dummies, 4th Edition
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Chapter 26: Ten Questions to Ask an Alaskan 395
Where Are You from Originally? 395
How Long Have You Lived Here? 396
Would You Tell Me about Your Gun/Boat/
Snow Machine? 396
What Do You Think of This New
Land-Management Plan? 396
Is the Legislature Doing a Good Job? 396
Why Is the Capital in a City You Can’t Drive To? 397
Where Do You Like to Go in Summer? 397
Have You Ever Encountered a Bear? 397
Here’s My Itinerary — Do You Have

ears ago, I was on Kodiak Island, a ten-hour ferry ride from the
Alaskan mainland, when three chic Italian women walked into the
visitor center, their fashionable black outfits wet, their manner confused.
In beginner’s English, they explained they had boarded the boat in
Homer thinking it would be an afternoon lark, a short ferry ride like
those at home. Instead, the ship had plunged onward through the night
in the stormy North Pacific, and here they were, a day later, marooned.
The folks in Kodiak took care of the visitors, and they ended up having a
good time. But before leaving, one of them asked me discreetly about
what was missing: snow and ice. They had arrived looking for Jack
London’s Alaska, but that summer everything was green.
They could’ve used this book. It’s an instruction manual for a place
that’s probably unlike anything you’ve ever experienced.
Alaska is a world apart from the rest of the United States, or, for that
matter, most other peopled places. It is, quite simply, wild. Many stereo-
types about Alaska do not hold. For example, during the summer, the
weather is pleasant, and short sleeves get plenty of use. But other
clichés are quite accurate: Wildlife roams freely across vast spaces,
unfettered by fences or roads. Grand scenery, on equal footing with the
most awesome sights on Earth, is within reach in every part of the state.
Opportunities to experience real wilderness are plentiful.
Alaska isn’t just what you expect. It’s probably much better.
About This Book
You didn’t pick up this book because you wanted to read; you got it
because you want to go to Alaska. So my job as a writer is to deliver
the information you need in the most efficient and straightforward way
possible.
Because itinerary planning is one of the primary challenges of an Alaska
trip, I’ve organized some material according to the routes you’re most
likely to follow. However, you don’t have to use the book that way: It’s