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A Man’s Guide to Overcoats
by Antonio on December 11, 2012 · 4 comments
in Dress & Grooming, Style
You probably want to be taken
seriously, get good service at a
restaurant, and make a good first
impression when you meet a
business partner.
Fleece coats from The North Face
may be great for a camping trip and
for outdoor activities, but at your
office job, they make you look like
an amateur, especially if you wear a
suit.
When it is cold outside, the only
acceptable outerwear with a suit is
an overcoat. But there are a lot of
terms thrown around when
discussing these dressier jackets. In
particular – what is the difference
between a topcoat, an overcoat,
and a greatcoat
In a nutshell, the differences all
pertain to weight, style, and
heritage.
An overcoat is a long coat
with sleeves that is worn on
top of something else.

Some men like a looser fit while younger men often prefer a trimmer fit. However, if you see X-
wrinkles when buttoning your overcoat, it is definitely too tight.
Style. With regards to style it is once again up to you what you choose. The single-breasted
overcoat with notched lapel is a good all-a-rounder whereas the double-breasted peak lapel
overcoat is a little more formal and wears warmer when it is cold because you have two layers
of fabric over your chest.
Construct ion. High-quality coats have a sewn canvas, whereas less expensive overcoats have
a fused canvas. A sewn canvas is definitely more durable and built to last whereas a poorly
glued interlining can come loose after a few years, ruining the garment. If money is of no
concern to you, go with a fully canvassed overcoat. If not, try to buy fully canvassed suits and
go with a glued overcoat. Unlike with a suit, a glued canvas overcoat is acceptable since it is cut
looser and you wear it less frequently.
Types of Overcoats
In order to be more specific, I want
to introduce you to a number of
classic overcoats which have all
made their mark in men’s clothing
history. As such, these styles are
timeless and will look as good today
as they will 20 years from now.
Chesterfield
First, let’s look at the Chesterfield
coat. Named after the Earl of
Chesterfield, and invented in the
mid-19th century, it was the very
first overcoat of its kind. Over the
years, it has only changed
insignificantly and today a
Chesterfield features:
No waist seams or front

a tweed material made to last. It
always comes in a brownish-green
color because it does not show the
dirt very much.
A Covert coat usually has the
following:
Single-breasted with a fly
front
Notched lapels
Made of brown-green
Covert cloth
Short topcoat that is just a
little longer than the jacket
beneath
Signature four (sometimes five) lines of stitching at the cuffs and hem, and optionally
on the flap of the chest pocket
Center vent
Two flap pockets with optional ticket pocket
The collar is constructed either of Covert cloth or velvet
Poacher’s pocket (huge inside pocket that can accommodate a newspaper or an iPad)
The rows of contrast stitching are a hallmark of the Covert coat and lend it a more casual flair.
If you want an overcoat that will be your companion for the next two decades, you should
consider this one.
It should be noted that if you wear your coat primarily for business, this may not be your best
choice.
If you’d like to know more about this garment, I recommend this article about the Covert Coat.
Trench Coat
The Trench coat is a timeless
classic that was invented in the
trenches of WWI and evolved into a

Guard used to wear. It is usually a navy blue overcoat that is
very similar to the Paletot with two basic exceptions:
It has a half belt in the back
It can be
buttoned with
three buttons
or just two
Basically, the Guards
Coat is not very
different than the
Paletot. Its back belt
makes it a little
fancier and more
unique but at the
same time it is very
difficult to find one
off the rack. If you
strive to be classic
and versatile, yet
unique, the Guards
Coat is the way to
go. Otherwise, stick
with the Paletot.
Ulster
The name Ulster is derived from the Irish province of Ulster, whose people popularized a
particular tweed overcoat. A classic Ulster is:
Rather long, roomy, and double-breasted with either 6 or 8 buttons
Great for cold weather because its Ulster collar makes it easy to protect the neck from
the elements
A rough country code with patch pockets, cuffs, and contrast stitching

collar with optional cuffs
As you can see, the Polo coat is quite similar to an Ulster overcoat, but it is special because of
its camel hair fabric and the golden-tan color.
With its light color, the Polo Coat definitely stands out from the crowd. If you are looking for an
American legend, this is your overcoat.
How To Buy An Overcoat
Buying Used
eBay and second-hand stores are
good places if you are a bargain
hunter and look for special styles.
Of course, supply is limited and
it requires a lot of work. If you do
not have an overcoat yet, I would
advise against eBay because it is
very difficult to get the fit right.
Every manufacturer’s sizes run
slightly different. Instead, head to
your local thrift stores and check
the racks for overcoats.
Make sure the overcoat does not
have stains, as not all of them will
come out at the dry cleaner. Also,
double-check for moth holes
because fixing them will be either
very expensive or impossible. In
order to make sure you do not have
any surviving moths or their eggs in
your garment, send the overcoat to
the cleaners. This will guarantee
that all moths are dead. And no, putting clothing in the freezer does not work

In summary, a well-fitted classic
overcoat is a smart investment
you’ll get thousands of wears out
of. And every time you put it on,
you’ll instantly step up your style.
Even if you’re just wearing jeans
and t-shirt underneath.
What do you think? What are your
thoughts on this classic piece of
menswear?
___________________
Written by Gentleman Gazette’s Sven Raphael Schneider & Real Men Real Style’s Antonio
Centeno